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Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

Valve Guides - Materials and Useage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors. Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines. Unfortunately they wore out very quickly. Silicone-brass content bronze is probably the most popular now - often with a high aluminium or manganese content - is very yellow/gold in colour.

Engine - Running in Procedure

This is another of those subjects that crops up on the message board frequently. I am constantly surprised by the number of engine builders - or people who charge other folk for building engines at any rate - that never hand out such an information sheet. It seems pretty daft to me that having taken a wad of money off of a customer for an engine you've lovingly put together, you'd want to help that person get the very best out of the engine. And the running/breaking in procedure is absolutely crucial. It at least ensures no damage is incurred when the engine first bursts into life. A collection of the usual suspects have explained their own methods on the board, along with various others - many of which probably work just as well for them, a few which are down-right dubious. Following is a sheet I administer with every customer engine I build.

Valve guides - Materials and usage

Material choices for guides are down to two distinct types - cast iron and bronze. Yes, cast iron. NOT steel as described in many adverts and by vendors.

Never have been, never will be. These are as fitted to the various A-series cylinder heads as standard in all applications. Cast iron is used because it is a very dissimilar metal from any used in valve manufacture - important to eliminate galling that causes seizure of the valves in the guides - is softer, yet resilient enough to wear well. Bronze, on the other hand, is a very general description as there are a variety of 'bronzes' used by various folk. In days gone by, the bronze base type used was 'PB1' (also known as 'Navy Bronze') - a phosphor-bronze alloy that was very orange in colour, and very soft, used primarily in race engines.

Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks making it a true mini. The rocker cover seals perished along with a diff output shaft seal. The leaks now rectified, Duckhams oil was used to refill the engine.

My own Twin point by Keith Dodd 1st June 2006 making it a true Having now covered 17000 miles in my twinpoint from new it developed bad oil leaks mini.

Having made some improvements and progress at Croft the decision now was – what to do next? The increase in toe-out on the rear, despite being a small amount, seemed to help get the car turned better. Should I add more? In my 'softly softly' approach to getting the car sorted so I don't loose my way I contemplated this for a while and decided that on the whole it would be better to go to Snetterton with the car as it finished at Croft....

Once again I found myself swamped with work causing the now familiar last minute rush to check the race car over before departing to Donnington. This race weekend was going to be a very different affair than what has become the norm. Karin was having to work the weekend, my 'opposition' in my class and in another Clubby - Steve (Young) - has resigned himself to doing the last race of the year at Oulton park due to work pressures, and stats man and hospitality provider Keith (Manning – now Otto v

At the end of 2007 we were kindly invited up to the British Motor Heritage centre in Witney scheduled for the end of January. As luck would have it, this nicely coincided with the latest build of Mini Bodyshells.

Having donned our safety glasses our tour began. Anyone at this point that had visions of an automated production line, with robots and machines doing most of the work was going to be disappointed.

Mini Production dates

We have tried to get together as complete list as possible to show all the models made from 1985 onwards, hopefully this will help identify those cars that have been modified over the years. If you have any information that you know is correct or anything that you think is not right please let us know.

Getting the car ready for the first race was not quite the last minute flurry of panicked activity it usually is. Largely because the re-fit and re-furb were kept to a minimum following complete strip re-build plans shot to pieces by tradesmen being somewhat hard to pin down to get very necessary domestic work done.

Most importantly the doors and windows in the garage. The special concertina type front doors have been falling slowly decaying over the past few years....

As I am now a Mini Spares sponsored driver one of the things I have been asked to do is a regular blog about some of my many memories and racing exploits from the past and future involving the classic Mini we all love, so here is my first.

My first blog to the Mini Spares centre is my first love story, don't stop reading just yet !! It's about a classic Mini. It was the end of 1978 when I was a very poor 17 year old racing in the Mini 7 Championship in the 850cc seven class.

I had been dreading my home race for a few reasons, one I did not feel that I had the car to win it this season and the second was we have been so busy with caravans at Snetterton Speed Shop, hiring Caravans out as well as selling them, I had not given much time to my Mighty Minis as they deserved.

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

EFl - THE CONTINUING SAGA It is some time since I reported on the electronic fuel injection and ignition system I have been developing for Mini Spares. Unfortunately I suffered a very stagnant period of too many months whilst a great deal of time was wasted by what I can only describe as the "holier than thou's" in the automotive electronics world. What a bunch of self-opinionated *ssh*l*s!! Far too many empty promises.

Manifold Developement Since the introduction of our range of inlet manifolds for the side draught Weber/Dellorto range, they have gained in popularity quite significantly over the venerable and until now unchallenged, steel fabricated items.

Cooper Body Shell The Heritage specialists fit a shell at the Classic Car show at the N.E.C. Only the latest type production bodyshells are available from Rover, who in their infinite wisdom have reduced the price from £1 ,700 to £950, which may help keep a few more cars on the road.

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